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  1. Last week
  2. Steph

    Talk & Crew Chief

    I have grown really fond of Crew Chief mainly because it can do so much more than you’d expect of it! I initially bought the app for my android phone and used it back in the days when i was racing on X-box. Now on PC i have downloaded the program, that is even better than the app i paid for! Crew Chief is a program that will keep you well informed during a race. It will tell you about your lap times, motivate you, scorn you if you don’t perform, and generally give you information about your performance and those around you. To top it all up, Crew Chief also has voice recognition so you can actually talk and ask your Crew Chief questions! I’ll make a post later, with a list of popular and helpful voice commands, like “How are my tires”, “Where should i attack”, “Pit stop add X liters” etc. To start with though, you’ll need to configure your Crew Chief to even listen to you. This is of course optional, so the feature is by default, turned off. You can turn it on though, and select between a few options on how and when you want Crew Chief to listen to what you say Don’t Listen Hold button Press and release button Always on Why all these options? The first problem I had, was that I didn’t want the people I was racing with, to listen in on the commands that I gave to Crew Chief. Mainly because i didn’t want to disturb them, but also because that would reveal my racing and pit strategy. So i needed a way to channel who I was talking with. This became even more complicated, by the fact that i already have two chat options, with in game chat and some times the discord chat. The solution for me, is to have 3 different buttons to press for each channel. 1 for in game voice chat, 1 for discord voice chat and 1 for crew chief. It’s a lot of buttons to sacrifice on this, but i think it is worth it. For crew chief, you can maybe assign a button on a button box instead of one on the wheel, because I tend to only speak to him on the straights, where as I may need to talk to other drivers while in corners or in very close combats. 4 Options for listening Don’t Listen This is selected by default, and will have Crew Chief turn a deaf ear to you. He will still inform you on anything he is set up to tell you, but he just won’t listen to what you say Hold Button For this option, you will have to press a button and keep it held down while you speak to Crew Chief. You then let go once you are done talking. This is in my opinion the most stable option, but maybe not the most handy Hold and release For this option, you simply press a button, wait for a bib that tells you that he is now listening, and then you proceed to talk. He’ll stop listening when you finish speaking. This is a great option, and the one i use, but some times you may need to try a few times for it to work Always on This option works like Alexa or Google Assistant. You say a trigger phrase, like “Hey chief” and then proceed with your question or command. To be honest, i haven’t tried this, mainly because my system resources are limited, and i wouldn’t want it to be wasting too much power listening to me, when i don’t have anything to tell him. It might not be that hard on your system though – i haven’t tested it How to assign a button Crew Chief Main window This is very straight forward, but if you are not used to Crew Chief settings it may be a bit frustrating, so I’ll go through it very quickly here. First you have to select your input device on the left, highlighted with the blue color in the image above. Then select the action called Talk to Crew Chief in the next field, highlighted with green. Once you’ve selected that, you can now press the button called Assign Control. Make sure to select the mode you want to use. After you’ve set up the Press to Talk button, you’re set and ready, but do go through the properties of Crew Chief to make sure everything looks like you want it (for example chose between Liter or Gallons, Miles, Km/h etc) One last thing There are just a few things left to mention here. Some of the information available will vary depending on what car you’re driving and also what sim you’re driving. Damage and tire wear are not included in the API data from iRacing so you can’t ask crew chief anything about this. On other games it will work just fine though. If Crew Chief doesn’t have the information you’re asking for, he might say he didn’t hear you. Don’t be discouraged and keep trying to ask the same thing again and again. It simply means that he doesn’t know. If you have limited how many cars are rendered in the game, to save resources, Crew Chief won’t know what position you have, even if your computer knows. They are working on improving this, but as of now, positions are really messed up if you don’t render the whole grid. In the upper right corner, you can set the settings of Crew Chief to each game you use. Make sure that you have selected the correct version of your game, when setting it up. Voice comands Stay tuned for a list of popular voice commands that I find myself using most of the time. Originally posted here
  3. Passing Every racing movie ever made shows the hero blow past his competitor in the final laps of a race. An amazing pass that usually seems like the driver is willing his car to be faster than his rival by pushing the pedal a little harder or shifting in some dramatic fashion. Unfortunately, in real racing or sim racing there is no such thing as being able to “will” your way past someone. To pass, you must be faster. As the passing driver, it is your responsibility to make sure that the pass is completed safely and without incident. You are the one who is bringing on the action, so you are responsible for doing so properly. Sadly, a lot of drivers believe that out-braking your opponent into a hard corner is the best way to pass, but it isn’t. There are several types of passes you can use to get past the car in front. Diving down the inside in a braking zone is the one that causes the most accidents, so you’ll want to avoid it if you can. If you are truly faster than the car in front, then you need to figure out why and where on the track you are faster. Let’s say you are quicker through turns 2 and 3, then you can set him up and get a run on him through these corners. This will allow you to use your faster corner exit to catch and pass the car in front without a dramatic confrontation before turn 4. At the very least you’ll be able to get alongside him to set your spot for the next corner. Using the exit speed out of the corner is much easier than trying to pass in a braking zone and is more likely to be a clean pass. If you are racing oval this still applies. Combined with using the draft/slipstream you can get driver ahead before you approach the next turn. Using the draft or slipstream down the longest stretch is another way to get past the other car. If you’re faster, then you will be their reach. Stay close and set yourself up for a run down the longest straight. Give yourself a little room so that you can gain speed and make your move without running into the back their car. And yes, lastly you can try to take them in the braking zone. This is a good way to pass if both drivers are respectful of each other. The whole debate of “I was alongside by this much” comes into play here though, and that can get really messy. We could write a whole book on the rules and regulations of various motor sports about what is considered “alongside”. For this section we will simply say that you need to establish position before the corner. This means you are truly up beside the other car before attempting the move. Diving into a gap that opens, while tempting, often leads to accidents because you’ve given the other driver no time to respond or react. He is simply going to turn into you, especially if you are unknowingly in their blind spot. Instead wait until you can establish your position and take the corner away. The inability of the car being passed to reach the apex will slow their car allowing you to finish the pass on corner exit. Whatever type of pass you choose to make remember, it’s on you to do so cleanly. Defending This is a tricky subject because there are a lot of drivers who are better at qualifying than they are at racing. Race pace is much different than being able to put down a fast lap. Many drivers qualify up front, but then find themselves defending because they aren’t truly faster than the cars behind. While you have the position, you need to ask yourself “am I faster than this car that’s all over me?”. If you’re not, then you should let him go most of the time. If he’s faster than you then maybe you can get behind him and gain some speed by copying what he’s doing. This can be a tricky subject though because letting somebody pass you is a lot different on lap 2 than it is on the last lap. If you are late in the race then it’s a lot more understandable for you to defend your position, but make sure you’re doing so properly. Driving in your mirrors and blocking constantly is not good driving at all. You are going to be even slower while driving this way and you’re more likely to end up in an accident. Most types of racing dictate that the lead driver should make one blocking move and then hold his line. Weaving back and forth on a long straight to block is just bad sportsmanship. To defend cleanly, you need to do so early and often. Let the driver behind know that you are taking the inside away long before you reach the corner. Position your car properly in and out of every turn to defend. If he still gets alongside you then he’s just too fast and you need to let him go. Defending to the point of wrecking your car is a horrible way to end a race and it’s just not good racing at all. In the end, we all want to be the one passing and not the one getting passed, but even the fastest drivers have their bad days. If you are smart and remain disciplined, then you will finish the race cleanly and that is what’s most important
  4. Earlier
  5. The F1 series was what got me started racing, after i felt that i needed to upgrade from Burnout. It was the game that opened my eyes virtual racing, and that the racing and not the crashing on car-games actually was very exciting! Although the series was a bit stuck on the same reskinned game in the early 2010s the latest series have gained a lot of momentum and are really impressive! Also, in my opinion, they are the best racing games for consoles, if you can live without a big range of cars. F1® 2019, the official videogame, challenges you to defeat your rivals in the most ambitious F1® game in Codemasters’ history. F1® 2019 features all the official teams, drivers and all 21 circuits from the season. This year sees the inclusion of F2 with players able to compete in the 2018 season. Check this gameplay from Tiametmarduk The F1® 2019 Anniversary Edition comes with two classic cars from the 2010 season; the Ferrari F10, as driven by Fernando Alonso and Felipe Massa, and Lewis Hamilton and Jenson Button’s McLaren MP4-25. The official videogame of the 2019 FIA FORMULA ONE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP, F1® 2019 challenges you to Defeat your Rivals in the most ambitious F1® game in Codemasters’ history. F1® 2019 features all the official teams, drivers and all 21 circuits from the 2019 season. This year sees the inclusion of F2 with players being able to complete the 2018 season with the likes of George Russell, Lando Norris and Alexander Albon. With greater emphasis on graphical fidelity, the environments have been significantly enhanced, and the tracks come to life like never before. Night races have been completely overhauled creating vastly improved levels of realism and the upgraded F1® broadcast sound and visuals add further realism to all aspects of the race weekend. THE OFFICIAL VIDEOGAME OF THE 2019 FORMULA ONE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP RISE UP AGAINST YOUR RIVAL NEW – F2 career opening – establish your reputation and defeat your rivals before stepping up into the F1® Championship. NEW – Customise your own livery and lead the pack in weekly challenges or in online leagues. Test yourself against the very best in the dedicated F1® Esports area. IMPROVED – Replay and share your finest moments with the new automated race highlights feature, while stunning new night lighting and official F1® branding add even more realism. F1® 2019 Legends Edition Senna & Prost The F1® 2019 Legends Edition celebrates the greatest rivalry in F1® history. Players get to drive as Ayrton Senna in his 1990 McLaren MP4/5B and Alain Prost in the Ferrari F1-90, and face off over 8 race challenges, as well as receiving exclusive Senna and Prost themed multiplayer car liveries. To Preorder or not Personally I would really suggest that you don’t preorder. The benefits of preordering are often very very small. As of rigt now, I actually don’t see any advantages, but they may come in some form of discount or exclusive content, that by definition can’t be vital to the game. Theoretically, you are just showing the developers that you’ll buy anything without considering the quality. Remember, the only way to show that you like or don’t like the decisions a game has made, is with your wallet. It’s too late to critisize, once you’ve bought it, and you’ll have to wait for the next version to show them your thoughts. That said, I know that many of you will actually buy anything F1 related, like I once did, and I can’t blame you. So if you do, check out the link bellow and order your copy already now. Or you can wait and make sure that it actually is worth it, which it probably is. You can (pre)order at Steam Originally posted here
  6. Interesting post here @Captain McJuicy Back in the day, when i raced Pcars 2, i had problems with pressures/temperatures huge variations between practice/qualifying and race. A setup that would work great for practice and qualifying, would be totally sliding everywhere once i got into a race. My solution was to simply let it pick tires by weather, but it was not ideal. How do you explain the shift from practice to race tires, when conditions are the same? I think its about tire warmers, but not sure!
  7. Ok. So, you’ve practiced (hopefully long stints like we previously talked about), you’ve set up your car and you’ve qualified for a position on the grid. It’s finally time for the actual race. There’s a lot that can go right, and there’s a lot that can go wrong. Here are some tips to run a clean and strong race. 1) The Start This is where most racers get it wrong and I don’t just mean sim racers either. No matter where they are starting, they feel like they’ve got to win lap 1. If you’re in the front you’ve got to get out ahead. If you’re in the middle you’ve got to make up for subpar qualifying. If you’re in the back.... look at all these people I can pass with a divebomb!!! The start of the race is full of anxiety and tight racing. The first few and last few laps are where most crashes happen. Don’t be the guy who divebombs and takes out 4 other cars. Stay calm and run your race like you practiced. You must learn to not let the moment be too big for you. You already know your pace if you’ve been practicing properly. You know the track. You must remain calm and let the people who don’t crash around you. Sometimes getting caught up in lap 1 crashes is unavoidable no matter what you do but focus on not being the one who causes the wreck. Getting out of the first couple laps cleanly is your goal. 2) Settle as fast as you can So, you’ve survived lap 1. Now it’s time to get to your race pace. Setting consistent laps is your main goal here. They don’t have to be blazing fast but try and keep your times consistent. There are going to be others who are faster than you who will make mistakes that you can take advantage of. There will also be people who are slower than you who will beat you if you make mistakes. Keep it clean and get into your pace. Once you’re settled the race will come to you. 3) Remain calm and be realistic Now you’re in the middle of the race. Let’s say you qualified 7th and you’re running 7th. Be realistic. With this car on this track 7th might be a great finish for you here. Only one person wins every race and there are plenty other finishes. Be real about where you are and where you want to be. You’ve survived the hardest part of the race already. Trying to push so hard that you crash or destroy your tires is going to end badly. This is where you figure out your goal for the end. Keep calm and keeping digging. It’ll be the end before you know it. 4) Finish strong Finishing strong doesn’t mean “pass a bunch of cars”. If you have the opportunity to pass some other drivers in the later stages of the race then go for it, but don’t abandon your clean racing tactics just to gain a spot. This is where a lot of people lose focus and mess things all up. If they’re running 2nd and 1st is within reach, they feel like they must push harder and obtain 1st. While this may work, it often leads to dirty racing or ugly passes. This is how we get those “whose fault is it” videos. Remember that finishing in the place you’re in is better than not finishing at all. Never abandon the whole race just to make a desperate pass on somebody who’s got better pace than you. Now, you’re at the end. You’ve gotten to this point in one piece. It’s time to bring it home! Maybe you’re milking worn tires to the finish or maybe you’ve collected some damage along the way. Either way, you’re going to finish as long as you don’t do anything stupid, so keep your head. 5) Review your race This is something that a lot of people don’t do, but it’s a great learning tool. Save your replays, go back and watch your race. You can use either the onboard camera you were racing in (hopefully cockpit view) or you can use the “TV cameras” that will allow you to see what kind of lines you were taking. This is very helpful when learning Racecraft because it teaches you to be critical of yourself. Learn to pick apart your own passes or your own defenses. Remember, that even the pros make mistakes. The difference between a good driver and a great driver is not IF they make mistakes but how they learn from them. If you learn to see where improvements can be made and implement a change to circumvent previous mistakes, you’ll be a better driver for the next race!
  8. Probably your first and often most major adjustment, tire pressure is incredibly important to stabilizing your car's handling, as well as optimizing top speed. Below is a handy guide to help you determine what tire pressure you need for any car on any track. Calculator may be required.
  9. Time Left: 12 days and 23 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    Magnetic paddle Sifters 3D printed in strong PLA. Fits after market wheels with 70mm center spaced holes like MOMO / SPARCO / NARDO etc: The Paddle Shifters have black carbon finish on the visible side. The central adapter is compatible with steering wheels of 320-350mm Adjustable The magnetic shifters are pre built with strong magnets and carbon steel bolts and have a solid click to them. Wires are 40cm long, there are no electronics, you will need to wire them to your controller. Available HERE Any questions drop me a line.

    37.00 EUR

    Bergen - NO

  10. Time Left: 12 days and 22 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    Logitech G27/G29/G920 Quick Release Steering Wheel Adapter, carbon Steel Reinforced The adapter is 3D printed and compatible with steering wheels with 6 bolt 70mm PCD. You can keep the buttons with this adaptor. Attaches to the logitech wheel base with the original bolts Attach the new wheel with 16mm M5 bolts or the bolts that came with the new wheel. Check You-tube for many tutorials on how to dismantle your Logitech hub and assemble your new wheel Available HERE

    23.30 EUR

    Bergen - NO

  11. We have all heard the same thing. Practice, practice, practice. Some racers spend a lot of time practicing, which can be really helpful, but it can also be a waste of your time and even detrimental. If you are going to practice, you’re probably doing so in preparation for a race. Why then do we go out guns blazing and run off the track? We’ve all done it. Sometimes we mistake practice for qualifying. We want to get faster and faster and FASTER! The problem is we never took the time to get good first. It’s impossible to be fast when you don’t really know the track and it’s even harder to be consistent when you don’t know the track at all. Instead of trying to mimic that hot lap video you saw on YouTube where the guy “ran a blistering 1:41” go out and run 10 smooth laps or more at a slower pace. Let the car and the tires settle in. You’ll get more comfortable and you’ll learn more that way than you will spinning off at every other turn. This type of practice prepares you for the actual race, where your tires are going to change, and you’re going to have to find a groove if you want to finish. In all types of racing across the globe there are guys who are qualifying champions. They lack consistency during the actual race, but they are great for 1 or 2 laps. That is not who you want to be. Sure, pole position gives you some advantage, but if you can’t string some laps together you’re going to finish in the middle of the pack anyway. Lengthen your practice runs to be close to the length of the actual race. Just get used to practicing that way. If you do it like that you’ll find you’re actually faster during qualifying when it’s time to crank up the heat.
  12. Can you put locations in the ads, it might be better for people across the pond or somewhere else so we don't have to pay for an extraordinary shipping cost, other then that, like the idea just live in the U.S *Ok, I just didn't see it*
  13. Time Left: 11 days and 5 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    This is a perfect wired headset, with 7.1 surround and really high quality. I have only used this for a couple of hours (2-3) and then upgraded to a wireless. Everything is included, box, cables, flyers etc. Can ship, but shipping is pretty expensive from here

    50.00 EUR

    Brøndeslev - DK

  14. The installation went smooth, it took about 5 minutes to mount the motor, the rim and the software. The new SQR ( Simucube Quick Release ) system is so refreshing to use after the well known previous systems. You slide your wheel on the shaft, and lock it with the pin. It is quick and secure connection, yet a little bit unorthodox in it's approach. You get both the wheel side and motor side quick release pieces with your motor. The system itself is for 50.8mm hole spacing, that is traditionally used on small formula style rims. In order to make sure there is enough space to use the release pin you also get a 30 mm spacer and an adapter plate for the full size 70mm bolt pattern. You got to watch out when mounting your rim to have the right size M5 screws available because the adapter plate does not allow nuts to be used. Both the wheel side SQR and the 70 mm adapter plate is threaded to accept the mounting screws, but your screws has to be the exact size. In order for the motor to work, you have to plug in your safety button, and on the back of the motor you find the power switch. True Drive Software Software installation is an easy copy+paste followed by a quick firmware installation. It all goes quick and smooth, and within a minute or two you have a working game controller in windows. It is a pretty familiar interface for those who used the original simucube systems: After some investigation i have quickly figured out that the "old filters" namely the Damping/Friction/Inertia works on a different scale. What used to be 1% now represented at 10%. It is much easier to control, you do not have to use decimal spaces anymore. The new software comes with a very a important safety feature. The normal mode is a sort of safe mode to be used by inexperienced users, the torque of the motor in case of the sport is about third of it's full capabilities. It is a smart thing for new Direct Drive users, kids, relatives and for public events where most people are not prepared for the savage power these motors can put out when high torque mode is enabled. The settings shown, are my recommended base settings! The software is under constant development. My pre-release version comes with one new filter to experiment with and it is most likely the most exciting one! Static Force Reduction Filter! The static force reduction filter was a much requested solution for the most burning problem that most windows simulation titles had in the past. These "games" are usually written and optimized for the mass market where the standard is a low torque probably belt or gear driven motor provides a modest amount of power. The software developers in order to make the cars feel better usually overdo the cornering forces to match and fully use whatever power those systems has. With a direct drive motor this approach results with a whole lot more torque under normal cornering than comfortable or realistic to use, and you end up with fighting the wheel or turning the power down and loose overall dynamics on the curbs and transitions. With the new Static Force Reduction Filter you can leave your motor turned up all the way up for maximum dynamics under all conditions, but you can scale down the static forces under cornering in order not to get worn our in a matter of minutes. Having full control over this is a huge step forward and very welcome change. First driving impressions After finding the high torque mode, and spending a few weeks with driving different simracing titles i have to say the limited power of the Sport motor is perfect match for my driving style and most likely will suite most competitive drivers. This is the first Direct Drive motor that does not feel completely intimidating and out of control to begin with. I used to own most of drive and motor combinations starting from Argon all the way to the latest simucube equipped systems using small&lage mige motors, and i have experience using the Kollmorgen motors. Granted, my experience with original simucube helped to get the software up and running quickly but it is hard not to notice how much smoother and controlled the new system is in general. With the Mige motors you had some cogging at all times, and under full power you could feel significant cogging/ripple effect and it never really felt naturally smooth unless you used a lot of filters. This time you get the very familiar feeling effects and filters, but someone has removed the digital blanket and replaced it with silky smooth yet highly detailed force feedback. It is hard to tell if it is the advancement of the motor design or the 4 times more powerful CPU that handles the filters but it simply feels like it has much much higher resolution and refresh rate compared to what we had with original simucube and competing motors The new electronics Many driven hours and days later, we have tried most of the simracing titles worth to try today. Simucube 2 has refueled my passion for simracing in so many ways. It was extremely refreshing to spend my time driving instead of tweaking and adjusting and even more tweaking. I have very quickly found a comfortable setting that was usable on any software and felt so natural, crisp, detailed, powerful but not terrifying, that i could instantly feel more of the road, the transition from understeer to oversteer like never before. Overall this motor drive/motor combination even without all the new features like manufacturers warranty, certifications, wireless system, SQR, ease of use, ect would score very highly on build quality alone. Having this extreme level of detail and fidelity while driving easily puts it well above anything else that was available before. Pure driving pleasure! The pre-orders are still open, Simucube 2 PRO is a hot seller! Get yours while it lasts, but do not under estimate this compact little Sport motor, it is powerful enough for anything but the craziest old formula cars and Indycars and most likely will be the perfect companion for esport and simracing competitive use.
  15. Here is a Find Five challenge, made with a picture of a Ferrari 512 BB/LM N.A.R.T #72 from Forza 6. I have edited five details that i hope are tricky enough for you to not see, but also not so tricky that you give up. Have a close look at the picture, and see if you can find them all. If you have looked closely, and still can't find all of the differences, you can find the solutions here.
  16. That looks awesome @Attila Kiss! thanks for this, will look forward to the review
  17. 1 thing i noticed is, that although you are in front and have the right to a corner, you can't expect other drivers to disapear if they already are there, or for them to brake if they are very close. Take a look at lap ine, in the Amman Kurve. Thats the right/left combination in the back straight, right before the final big curve. I'd say that you should hav eexpected the opponent to be on your inside there, and should have left some more space.
  18. This is a big day! The pack has just arrived from Finland in time before the official release. It is a surprisingly compact thick carton box. It was delivered without major scars, it is all good so far. Oh, it is Heavy, but pretty easy to deal with..so, lets take a look: She is a beauty! One classy looking, sexy motor. The craftsmanship and materials are excellent. Every surface is aluminium, hard anodized. The very nice finish is matching on each parts. The chamfering on the edges are smooth and uniform. Details on the face of the motor on the side of the motor and at the connector panel is just so much nicer done than any other industrial motor i had before. You find mostly everything in the box for a quick installation, apart from the steering wheel itself and the the motor mount. I was about to install it in a Sim-Lab P1 style cockpit with a heavy gauge wheel deck, otherwise you will have to think about a mounting bracket. I had quickly realized that the front facing M8 holes are threaded. That is a big relief after the Mige motors, where you had to jam a nut and a sprocket to an impossible space in order to secure the motor. This little touch makes the installation so simple and avoids the possible scratches and marks that most people have regularly left on the old motors. Within the pack you find: Simucube 2 motor Notebook style external power supply USB and power cable Safety stop button SQR - the new Simucube Quick Release System complete with: 30 mm spacer 50 to 70mm adapter Release pin What you need: Steering wheel and M5 screws with 50 or 70mm mounting diameter Mounting bracket and screws as your rig desires Big surprise, the box was so small because there is no control box, all electronics are integrated into the motor. Even the back end of the motor is aluminium. The connectors and the back end is well labeled, literally the only plastic thing on this little motor is the Wi-Fi window that you see bellow the isolated and surge protected usb port. Very very nice work. The motor took minutes to mount and hook up and was trouble free to make it work. So far i am in love. I will be back with driving impressions in a few weeks, after we could test drive it with every possible game on the market today. You can pre-order your SimuCube wheel already from our site at RaceWerk. They start shipping already in May!
  19. It overall looks like a good race, however, you did make a few errors in passing, (small bumps/pushing wide) which you already addressed, but if you know a car is passing you and you do not know if you are clear, aim to give them room, I've been spun out a few times not giving people room who are on my quarter panel. Also, I'd aim to use the curb a bit less, it gives you good time if you can keep it under control but if you can't (like me) then it upsets the balance of the car and loses you more time then you would have gained. Other then that, you look very good, good job.
  20. Steph

    Top iRacing Addons

    iRacing is an exceptionally good sim racer, and is almost a complete racing solution for dedicated and passionate racers. That said, there are a few external addons that make it even better. We’re going to take a look at the most popular Most of these, work as separate programs, that will feed off the iRacing API and give you real time information on what is going on in the game/sim. Crew Chief Crew chief is basically what you would expect of a pit wall crew. It is roughly a combination of a spotter, but will also inform you of gap to other cars, tell you about fuel consumption, inform you on tire status and much much more. It will even calculate how much fuel you need to put in the tank, to make it to the end. The really great feature about Crew Chief is that it has built in voice recognition. Althought you can talk to Crew Chief, It does not quite have AI status, so don’t expect it to be Google Assistant, Alexa or a motor enthusiast version of Siri. That said, it is really practical when you need information while racing, or if you need to adjust your pit strategy Personally i have used Crew Chief since i was racing on Project Cars on Xbox, using a phone to run it, and was very very happy with it. On iRacing, it has a few limitations compared to other racing games, but it is not crew chiefs fault. iRacing limits the information that it will pass to Crew Chief, so there will be data that Crew Chief can't help you with, that he would in other games (like tire temperature, damage status and tire wear). This is not information that you would have had anyway in iRacing though, so it is no big issue. The biggest issue for me, is that if you don't render the whole grid locally (if you have set your settings to calculate fewer cars than the whole grid) it will not be able to calculate your position in the race. Although this is a pretty big issue, that i know they are working on a solution for, Crew Chief is still one of the best addons you can find for iRacing. Crew Chief is surprisingly free but do consider donating a small amount for the job that they are doing. Trading Paints This is a free software that will replace paint schemes from the somewhat simple options that iRacing offers, to full blown custom paint schemes. Not only will it allow you to load skins on to your car, but it is also needed, to see the skins others are using. This means that you may have used a skin from trading paints, but the ones who don’t have Trading Paints installed, won’t be able to see your skin. There are surprisingly many who do use it though, so if you like looking at often pretty cars, do go ahead and get it! You’ll need to create an account on their page, and pick your preferred paints on their site, but it works well, and makes races look a lot nicer. Of course you will also some times have to look at the silly paints that others choose but i guess that this is a matter of taste. You can also use it share your own paints and let others race them. Trading paints is free, but you can upgrade to a paid account, that will let you have additional features if you are into creating and sharing car liveries. JRT Timing This is maybe my favorite app. It is a timing and dashboard app that has a whole list of information pages you can run on external screen, phones tablets or overlays on top of iRacing. Basically anything that runs a browser can run JRT information screens. That said, i personally have used JRT mostly as overlays. Especially the dashboard, i prefere to run as an overlay, to avoid lag on the rev display. I figured out how to run iRacing in windowed mode (without seeing any of the desctop) and then put the information pages on top of the game. I mostly use the dashboard page and a simplified timing page, that also shows me the other drivers iRating and Safety rating. There are several other pages too, but they all tap into your CPU too much, so i had to limit my usage. Image of dashboard, from JRT webpage I initially used the dashboard on an Android phone, but had issues with too much lag. The Rev limiter would not update fast enough so i couldn't use it to change gears at the right time. It might be down to a too slow phone, bad connection or some bad settings (you can adjust the FPS settings for the information). The timings screen though can easily run on a tablet though, and will give you information like what iRating or license the drivers have, what club they are in, what class they are racing, the SOF and much other information that you usually don't have access to! JRT does not really look that nice, but it has some invaluable information for you and your viewers if you are streaming your races. It has a free and a paid version, but buying the paid version really opens up for some pretty neat features Setup Sync Setup Sync is a software that lets you share and get setups from others. You can filter setups by car and tracks so that you can get the best setup for each combination, but be aware that the setups are so specific that they don’t always match the weather or track usage that you are racing on. That said, it is a very useful tool with many handy features Automatically download recent setups for your current car / track, as soon as you start iRacing. Browse through your recently used setups, then instantly share them, or save them locally if you forgot. Search setups by car, track or team and download the ones you don’t have yet. Compares your local setups with the online database setups to determine which setups you already own – there is no point in downloading duplicates! Subscribe to cars, tracks and teams and quickly search setups that match any of your subscribed items. Completely customizable directory and setup naming convention with macros like the setup author, car, track, season and many more. Operates on a vast database which is continuously updated by setups added by other users Although the software is perfect for managing your setups, and getting setups from others, it is really difficult to figure out what setup is best, not to mention what setup is best for you. Your best change, is to keep track of the names of the creators that you prefer and look for setups that they have made. There are tons of addons for iracing, and i am sure that i have missed som that you may think are better than the few i have listed, so do try others out. For me, these are addons that greatly increase the experience and immersion of iRacing. Let me know in the comments bellow if you know of any addon that you think i should try out!
  21. Alright boys and girls let’s get into some nitty gritty. Take a look at this race and tell me what I did wrong here. It’s a pretty clean race, but there are several things that can be tightened up for sure. I normally run a minimum of 20 laps in races like this, but for the sake of capturing I ran a sprint. It’s an older video, but it will work just fine for our purposes here. Racecraft 101. How about it all you veteran racers? If I was running 25 laps in this race instead of 4, what was I doing wrong? How good or bad were my interactions with the other cars? Key Points: • Pushed car off during first turn • Could have left more room taking 2nd • Raced at qualifying race – tires would be spent sooner in a longer race
  22. I talk about F1 and things while having a drive in Project Cars 2.
  23. I will be hosting a race in Project Cars 2 on PS4. Tues, Apr 23 at 2pm EST. Drop your PSN if you're interested.
  24. Steph

    iRacing Bars

    One thing that I have really had trouble understanding properly, are the iRacing performance bars. So i had a closer look at them, and the information available, to try and sort them out. Although I will try to explain what these bars show, based off what i could gather from the internet, I sadly can’t get into exactly why they show what they do. This seems to be more complicated, than even iRacing support can figure out some times. Non the less, it is a good and detailed explanation of all the performance bars that display on the FPS black box. The first thing you’ll need to know, is that you can chose what bars you want to display. When you’re in the sim head to options, and in the tab called Options, you’ll find the On Screen Display options. Here you can choose to have them disabled, shown graphically, or shown numerically You’ll notice that they are grouped in different categories, and this is the first step to understanding them. Instead of a list of letters with status bars, you might notice that they are grouped, into four groups. There is a very slight gap between these letters, on the black box, that maybe is more visible now that you know that they are meant to be grouped. Graphics : R & G Network: L & Q System: C & S & P Steering: F Please note, that if the Simulation determines that it seems to be having critical performance issues (ie issues that are causing it to fall behind the race server) some of the displays will be forced on, even if you currently have them hidden. The labels of the meters that indicate the performance issue will be flashed. Steering F for Force Lets start with the last letter on the list, as it is the easiest of them all. The F bar shows you the strength of the Force Feedback that your wheel is giving you. You want to keep the forces below 100% so that the wheel is not over-saturating, but still high enough that you are using the full range allowable from your wheel. You can adjust this while you’re in the car, and driving, by using your F9 black box. Here you can either set it manually, or after running a lap or two, select the “auto” option, that will set it to the proper value, depending on the track you’re driving on. Red indicates you have 100% torque saturation or more, yellow indicates you have 85% to 99% torque saturation, and green indicates 84% or less torque saturation. This bare will only show if you’re in the car – it will disappear if you exit the car into the menu Graphics R for Renderer This is one of the bars that really felt confusing for me. It turns out that it actually is two bars on top of each other! This meter shows a 1-second running average of how much time it is taking for the iRacing graphics engine to build the set of commands that tell the graphics card how to draw each frame. An empty bar means it is taking 0 seconds, and full bar means it is taking 1 second. A purple bar is shown beneath this one, and shows the 15-second running average. If you set this to display a numerical value, it will show the value in milliseconds, but only for the 1-second running average G for Graphics Similar to the bar above, this is also a stacked bar. It also shows a 1-second running average of how much time it is taking your graphics card to draw the displayed frames. Basically this is a status of how your GPU is performing. An empty bar means it is taking 0 seconds, and full bar means it is taking 1 second. A purple bar is shown beneath this one, and shows the 15-second running average. If you have this set as a numerical value, it will show the average time in milliseconds but only for the 1-second running average. Network L for Latency The first bar in the network category is for latency between your computer and the race server. Network latency is the term used to indicate any kind of delay that happens in data communication over a network, but will often be caused by your router or modem and some times hardware like a slow hard-drive. There can be many other reasons too though. An empty bar is 0ms of round-trip network latency between your computer and the race server, while a full bar is 1000ms (one second) of latency. If you have set this to a numerical value, it will display latency in milliseconds. Q for Quality There are many ways one would describe the quality of a connection, but here, it will describe packet loss. I am no expert in this, so me trying to explain it might sound stupid, and might be wrong. So if you really want to learn about this, do so somewhere else. From what i can understand, some time, when you press a network or a link in the network to more than what it was designed to, it will kick off some of the data that it was meant to transmit. TCP will make sure that this data gets resent and even out the rush of data, so packet loss should not affect performance noticeably. It might though, if there is too much. This bar is two sided. One side (the left-side) measures the incoming network packet loss to the comluter from the race server. The right-side meter measures the incoming packet loss on the race server from your computer. An empty meter is 0% packet loss, and a full meter is 50% packet loss.If you have set this to a numerical value, it will show the percentage of packet loss System C for CPU Overall, the core of iRacing on your PC, runs 60 times per second, although some parts run at a higher rate. To keep-up with the simulated world, it must complete an “update” in less than 1/60th of a second, otherwise it will start falling behind. This bar, shows how well your PCs CPU keeps up with this rate of calculations, to keep up with what is going on. This bar is also a stacked one, where you can see two bars on top of each other. The bar will show a 1-second and a 15-second-long running average of the percentage of that 1/60th of a second the simulation is taking to “run the world”. An empty bar means 0% of that 1/60th of a second is being used, while a full bar means at least 100% is being used, but it could actually be “running long”. If the simulation keeps “running long”, it will begin to fall behind “real time”, leading to time Skew between your Simulation and the server. If you have set this to a number value, it will display as a percentage of the allowed 1/60th of a second that the Simulation is using to update the world. S for Skew This is where it can begin to get a bit too technical, and to be honest, I am not sure about what I am trying to explain. From what i understand, the game server keeps track of the “world” that you’re racing in. This means that the server you connect to, knows what is going on, and if all was right, what your computer calculates, should correspond to what the server has. Skew happens when there is a difference between the simulation-world time on your instance of iRacing on your PC, and the correct simulated-world time at the race server. While small flickers of Skew can appear due to “network jitter” the most significant amounts of Skew are almost always caused by your computer being unable to perform the calculations necessary to keep up with real time, as discussion above, for the C bar. This is a special bar that has 0 in the middle and can expand towards both directions. An empty bar means your simulation is in sync with the server. As the meter grows to the left from the center, your system is falling behind the server, and the bar will be full-left when the Sim is 1 second behind. As the meter grows to the right from the center, your system is getting ahead of the server, and the bar will be full-right when it is 1 second ahead. If you have set this to numbers, the measurement will be is in seconds. P for Paging This one is a bit technical too, but to oversimplify it, it is about RAM. If you have problems with this bar, you either have too little RAM, too slow RAM, or your OS is having trouble administering the usage of RAM. Paging is the term that covers how the operating system manages the attachment of physical RAM memory to a program’s virtual memory addresses. When the OS must intervene in the virtual<->physical memory attachment, that causes a “page fault”. “Hard” page faults are when the operating system must transfer data between physical RAM and your disk (or SSD). These can greatly affect the performance of your system. The bar will display hard page faults in green or yellow, and the meter will be full-yellow at 30 hard page faults/second. If you have this set to a numerical value, it will display the number of hard page faults per second.
  25. Right now I've got a lot of content to edit, so I'm not sure if I'll be uploading this week. But starting next week, every Monday I will upload a weekly update so you know what you can expect that week. So subscribe to make sure you don't miss a thing!
  26. The title video for the Captain McJuicy YouTube channel.
  27. The Norma M30 is an LMP3-spec sports prototype. The car is built by French constructor Norma Auto Concept and designed by company co-founder Norbert Santos. The Norma M30 won the 2017 Michelin Le Mans Cup in its debut year entered by DKR Engineering. Powered by a Nissan 5.0l V8 engine producing 420 BHP it weighs a mere 900kg. This makes for some fun and fast racing at some iconic circuits. Daytona – there is no more classic “roval” than Daytona. Host of the world famous 24 hour race. Road Atlanta – Home of the insta-classic Petit Le Mans. For the third year in a row, it will also host a round of the 24 hours of LeMons with the Yokohama Coldlanta 500 in December. Mosport – Since 1961 this Canadian circuit (now known by the rather boring name of Canadian Tire Motorsport Park) has hosted everything – Formula 1, Can-AM, Indycar, NASCAR, Superbikes and sportscars. Road America – This track at Elkhart Lake is one of the few in the world still using its original configuration. It plays host to NASCAR and Indycar and has hosted some form of sportscar event every year since it opened in 1955. Virginia International Raceway – This multi-configuration track first opened in 1957, and was revived in 2000 after being closed for 16 years. It hosts a sportscar round and many member events. Mid-Ohio – Another classic. Although designed in 1962 for sportscar racing, Mid-Ohio is also a regular fixture for NASCAR and Indycar rounds, and always delivers exciting racing. Points: Points are awards to drivers only after completing 70% of the race time and are as follows: 1st 30, 2nd 28, 3rd 26, 4th 24, 5th 22, 6th 20, 7th 18, 8th 16, 9th 14, 10th 12, 11th 10, 12th 9, 13th 8, 14th 7, 15th 6, 16th 5, 17th 4, 18th 3, 19th 2, 20th 1 An additional point is awarded for the fastest lap of the race and for pole position. Our server settings are as follows: Server Name : WSS LMP3 Cup Qualifying Starts : 19:00 UTC Qualifying : 15 minutes Warm Up : 5 minutes Race Length : 90 minutes Start : Pit lane limiter on green until the nominated starting point (see race briefing) Flags : Black Only In Game Race Time : x1 Weather : Real Damage : 50% Tyres : x1 Fuel : x1 TC : Not enabled ABS : Not enabled Auto Clutch : Allowed Password : None until race day, the password will be then announced on our discord channel
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