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Maybe you’re just getting started as a sim racer, or maybe you’ve been away from racing for a while and you’ve just come back. Maybe you’ve simply fallen into a rut you can’t pull yourself out of. Consider that you may be racing in the wrong series before giving up. We all have our favorite motorsports and the types of racing we love most. Maybe you love real F1 so you want to race F1 right off the bat. Maybe it’s GT3, Indy, or Prototype cars. Let’s look at “where we want to be” vs “where we actually are”. Where we want to be We all want to drive the fastest cars possible. We first got our new wheel and pedals. We don’t fire up American Truck Simulator (most of us anyway). Instead you jump straight into racing. We want to feel the rush of fast corners and high speed braking zones. We want to fly through the gears while making passes and eating up somebody’s slipstream. The thing we don’t envision is puttering around a track in slow and mostly unexciting track-day cars or worse, turning painfully long laps while trying to gain seconds with a car that seemingly won’t move. The problem is as a newer driver, you probably aren’t ready for the top class of cars. You’d be doing well to turn decent laps in a high-downforce, high-performance car. After all, the racing that you are simulating requires the best drivers in the world. Why would a simulation of that be good for beginners? But, even if you can run the laps to keep up you are not a seasoned driver yet. To compete against other drivers or AI you have to know how to attack, how to stay off of somebody’s rear bumper, how to pass cleanly, and follow the basic rules of racing. Let’s say you’re racing an F1 car, a Prototype, or an Indy car. That means you have to make all the judgements and decisions of a respectful racing driver in a fraction of the time allotted in slower cars. You are trying to learn the most extreme type of racing in the world without even knowing how to drive like that yet. The truth is, you’d be better suited to stay in a “beginner’s class” while learning how to race. Yes, it seems less fun at first. Yes, it’s less speed and less impressive cars. But trust me, it can be just as rewarding as the higher classes. The hours spent driving in these cars allow for you to learn racing lines, learn how to pass properly, how to follow the track’s limitations, and even how to follow a pit strategy. This will make you a better driver later in your career. If you skip this part you may never learn a lot of the finer points to racing. If you put in the time to learn how to be a good, clean competitor, then you will be able to slowly move your way up the racing ladder. But be warned, you may fall in love with some of the slower classes of racing. They are ultra competitive and offer some of the best close racing you’ll find anywhere. Where we actually are It can be tough to swallow the fact that you just aren’t cut out for your favorite type of racing yet. What you have to remember is that the guys who race in real life had to move their way up too. There are very few people who can fly up the flag pole to the top of Motorsport. Have an honest conversation with yourself and do some testing. Run some slower classes of cars and see how you like them. You’re most likely going to land in a class that trains newer drivers how to race. We were all there at some point. Some of us never moved on from the slower classes of racing. You never know, you might find a new favorite class or even type of motorsport such as rally, drift, drag and so on. I’m a big fan of the lower level formula cars; open wheelers that are less aero dependent, and a lot slower, but still offer quick-twitch racing. Give them a try. Tons of drivers run the MX-5 cars in iRacing and other sims. They are a great entry point for new racers. My point is: find a level of racing where you can learn as you go. If you dive into the deep end, it can be overwhelming and can take the fun out of racing.
I don’t know if you have seen our logo around in Iracing, but I sure hope you have. We have been around for almost a year now. We make visual aids for drivers that run in Iracing. Our IracingIflags give visual aid by giving the driver a heads up on just about everything going on out on the track from displaying the flag status on the track, to helping you come in the pits by telling you if your going to fast or even to slow. The box gives the driver over 20 visual aids in all. Our IracingIflag Digital Pitboards help drivers by showing them how much fuel they are burning per lap, how much fuel they need to finish the race, what lap to pit on, weather and track conditions, tire wear, and much more.. you can read more about our products if you go to www.iracingiflag.com. Take a look around and drop us an email of you have any questions. Also, keep in mind that we put 60 to 70% of what we make goes back in to Iracing and the Iracing community. We sponsor drivers, races, and race teams. Not too many people who are making product for Iracing can tell you they are doing the same thing, so we are very happy that we can. We support you by you supporting us.. We will be coming out with some new products this year, this month we have already made upgrades to our Digital Pitboards by upgrading the boards used inside to make the product more reliable and faster and the best thing about this is,.. we made the upgrade with out charging our customers more for the product! Yep, a better product for the same amount of price. We do what we can for our customers and that’s one reason we have a 5/5 customer rating. We stand behind what we make and do what we can to make sure the customer is happy with what they get. We also want to give a big thank you to Petr Vostrel who does a great job at making the Iflag software that powers our IracingIflag Iflag and Brock Cremer who does the software for our Digital Pitboards. These two guys work hard to keep the software up and going for the drivers and the Iracing community. So, thank you very much! To lean more about us, go to www.iracingiflag.com and you can also find us on Facebook as well at www.facebook.com/iracingiflag.
untilThis is a test session, to find any issues with packing many cars in a multi class event on Watkins Glen. We're using this as feedback for the series race of iRacing Club Scandinavia. Although you can't join on the official series, unless you're in the Scandinavian Club, please do join in on this test session as we need as many cars as possible to test. (The offcial race has 60 cars grid). We're racing on Watking Glen Internation Club Layout. GTE and GTC cars. Session name: Team Bergen CSL Test Password: Bergen If you are assigned to the Scandinavian Club by iRacing, you can join the league by visiting the iRacing Forum here
About a month ago, I decided to only stick to one series, and get better at that instead of joining any one of the car/track combinations that I had bought the content for. At the point I was not sure if one series was enough, and I was afraid that i might get bored with racing just one car on one track for a whole week. It has turned out to be more than enough, and I even some times wish that the series would stay at a track for longer than just one week. I even get nervous and anxious every Tuesday, when the series moves on to a new track. One of the steps for getting better at driving the skip barber, was watching a lot of videos of fast people driving it. I’d just join open practice sessions, and spectate the fastest guys. Most often than not, they’d just mess up, or get messed up by others. You can get the general idea of what they were trying to achieve though and I learned a lot about how the car is supposed to feel when it’s at the limit of what it can go around a track. Although many things seemed obvious, and easy to replicate, i was confused at how different gear shifts sounded, to mine. So i spent some time figuring out how the fast guys shift gears My way (the slow way) I don’t have a shifter installed, so I only use the paddles on my wheel to change gears. I also don’t use the clutch, because i really can’t get the same feeling that I expect, being used to the clutch on my every day car. This means that I have been racing with autoclutch, and autoblip turned on. This allows me to change gears by simply pressing the left or right paddles when i need to change ears. This is by far the easiest way, and what most rookies like me probably use. The best way Once you start reading this, it may sound a lot worse than it actually is. A few laps should get you used to this, compared to the several weeks it took me to get used to manual gears back when i started! Turn off any assists. No autoclutch, no autoblip, no auto nothing! Clutch You will only be using the clutch for race launches, so lets get this over with right here. When you start the race (from standing starts), just hold the clutch down, put it in first gear, and rev it all the way to the limiter. When the lights go off, simply release the clutch, and you’ll get a pretty good launch compared to many other methods. Some have used the feature in the settings called “Alternative Clutch” to map the clutch to a button. This way they simply release the button at start. This should be slightly faster, but i couldn’t get mine to work. You will not use the clutch for anything else than this! Upshifts For upshifts, you will need to press the right paddle, slightly before you need to change, but don’t release it! As long as you hold the paddle in, it won’t change. Some call this “preloading” the gear, or locking it, but the truth is that i don’t know what this is called. I was surprised that the gear won’t change when the pedal clicks, but as long as you don’t release the paddle, it will stay in the gear you were in. To actually change the gear, simply lift the throttle pedal very quickly, to “release tension”, and press it again to accelerate. This puts the gear shift in effect, and you’ll get a very fast upshift with no wasted time on overreving hitting the limiter. Downshifts Downshifting is a lot more straight forward, but also a bit more tricky. Although the gear ratios of the Skip Barber car are very close, you can get it to spin if you downshift too early, especially if you are turning. It’s nothing you really need to think about, as long as you make sure the revs have dropped a bit before downshifting. At some corners you can even use downshifting to get some extra rotation into the car and turn faster, but this is basically what you need to practice and get used to. Careful There are a few things to remember. For race starts, the car won’t go into 1st gear if it is revving high, even if you use the clutch. You’ll have to wait until the revs drop, to be able to put it in gear. This can be very dangerous when you start the race, so make sure you put it in gear, before you rev it up. It seems like you need a longer lift off the throttle in the lower gears, and when the engine is pulling the car up a hill. The risk is that you won’t lift enough for the gear to change, and that you’ll miss a gear shift. This won’t, in most cases, punish your laptime enough to lose a race, but it’s good to know. This was written in late 2018. iRacing has since introduced staling, and a slightly more advanced gearing, but the guide above should still be the best way to change gears.